Bloom Period:  Soil Requirements:
  ·  Mid Spring    ·  Medium ·  Dry

Shape:  Leaf Color:
  ·  Pyramidal    ·  Green

Special Uses:
  ·  Street Tree ·  Fast Growing

Care: These trees are adaptable to many types of soils, including clay. They tolerate dry soil and air pollution. Callery Pears should be sited in full sun. They are easy to transplant balled and burlapped if they are moved in the late winter or early spring. Prune, if necessary, in winter or early spring.

Design: Although the 'Bradford' cultivar of Callery Pear has been overused, the sturdier cultivars are highly useful trees for landscapes and urban settings. They are fine street trees, lawn trees, and all-around general purpose plants.
    This popular cultivar of Callery Pear inhabits almost every city and town to some degree or another. The tree reaches a height of 30'-50' with a spread of 20'-35'. The leaves are glossy green and lustrous in the summer, turning scarlet or purple in the fall. The white flowers, borne in clusters in spring, turn the tree into a beautiful but malodorous cloud. The tiny fruits are neither ornamental nor edible. Bradford Pears display a uniform pyramidal shape when young. At maturity, however, their wood is brittle and the branch angles are weak, causing the trees to split apart in storms. Some of the newer cultivars of Callery Pear, such as 'Aristocrat,' 'Capital,' and 'Chanticleer,' are superior in strength and sturdiness to 'Bradford.'
 

Bugle weed produces crowns and spreads by horizontal above ground stems called stolons. Bugle weed has foliage reaching 4-6" in height and produces attractive 8-10" spikes bearing purple-blue flowers in late spring. The species itself has medium green foliage, but some selections with unique foliage coloration have been made.

Bugleweed  Garden flower Ajuga reptans    A very aggressive, mat forming perennial which spreads by runners. Foliage is bronze-purple, usually variegated and will remain evergreen through the winter if mulched. Able to fill large areas quickly, Bugleweed grows so dense that weeds have almost no chance of germinating. Ajuga spreads so fast that without well planned borders or constant vigilance, Bugleweed will become the invading weed.

Requirements: Soil Type - Any well drained soil Soil ph - Neutral Water - Moist Light - Full sun - part-shade    Characteristics: Height - Low, dense mat forming, to 6 in. Time of bloom - May - June Flower colors - Blue-Purple Propagation - Runners, division Transplants - Easily
 

Scientific Name: Celosis Argenta
Family: Amaranthaceae
Duration: Annual
Alternative Names: Cock’s Comb, Sokoyokoto
Celosia is an erect annual that grows up to 4 feet tall. The plant is cultivated in Sierra Leone for its edible greens, that vary in color from light green to dark red. Both green and red types are widely grown in West Africa for their nutty flavored greens. The red type is similar to the green type, but it is taller and bushier. Leaves of the red celosia type have a distinct purple marking. In the United States there are other varieties of celosia grown for ornamental use. Two ornamental types are crested cock’s comb and plumed cock’s comb, both which produce colorful flower heads in cream, yellow, orange, red and red-purple shades.
Celosia can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions, although high levels of organic matter are required for good yields, particularly for the green type. A stable high temperature of 70-75 degrees is suitable for both edible celosia varieties. Heavy rainfall will not limit growth, so celosia is commonly grown during the wet season in Sierra Leone.
Growing Methods:
Green types are grown by either broadcasting seeds or using transplants. The green variety, which is more popular, is grown by broadcasting seeds on prepared raised beds. Composted animal manure is added before broadcasting or transplanting into beds. Dry grass is sometimes used a mulch and removed after germination.
Harvesting:
Since broadcasting is the common method used to plant celosia in Sierra Leone, seedlings are harvested 30-40 days after sowing, by thinning out the tallest plants after they reach about 7-10 inches. Harvesting of leaves on remaining plants then continues until plants are about 4 feet tall, or until plants go to seed.
Common Uses: The nutty-flavored celosia greens -- particularly the green type -- are steamed and added to stews. Steamed Greens can also be flavored with garlic, pepper, fresh lime and olive oil to use as a side dish.
 
 

The Shasta daisy is a creation of plant breeder Luther Burbank, who for 15 years interbred wild species of chrysanthemums from various parts of the world to produce this modern mainstay of perennial gardens. They range in size from 1 to 3 feet tall and will bloom some time between mid-summer and fall. The flowers, as large as 6 inches across, come in single, double and anemone forms, and are nearly all snow white with occasional tinges of yellow.
HOW TO GROW
Shasta daisies do well in Zones 4-10 and do best in full sun. They need a soil that has been enriched with organic material such as compost, leaf mold or cow manure. They will need ample watering during the growing season and good drainage while dormant in the winter. Space the plants 12 to 14 inches apart.
They are easily grown from seed in the spring, but those grown from seed will not bloom until the second season. Division of clumps is the prefered method of propogation, and this can be done in the spring. To prolong the bloom pick off flowers as soon as they fade. To prevent overcrowding, divide painted daisies and Shasta daisies after three or four years of flowering, feverfews after one or two years.
Type: perennialPropagation: dividing clumps, seedLight: full sunFlower Color: most are whiteBloom Time: mid summer to fallHeight: 1-3 feetWidth:-Soil Requirements: well composted, moist during growing season, well drained when dormantZones: 4-10Uses: beds, borders
 

Though we commonly refer to trees that hold their needles over winter as "evergreens," they are in fact better classified as "conifers" or plants that bear cones. Of course, common and well-known examples include pine and spruce trees. There is also a small group of plants known as "deciduous conifers." These plants have needle-like foliage that appears to be "evergreen," but in fact, these plants lose their foliage as the dormant season approaches. This group includes such trees as baldcypress, dawn redwood, and larch. This special group of plants will be discussed at the end of this fact sheet.
Selecting the Proper Tree
There are several factors to consider when choosing an evergreen tree to make sure it will thrive in your landscape. What function do you wish the tree to serve? How large will the tree be when mature? What site characteristics and cultural requirements does it need in order to thrive? Is it suited to your local weather conditions? Is it resistant to known pests and diseases? What is the plant's form, needle color, and other aesthetic qualities that interest you?
Although a few smaller evergreens are available from the garden center in containers, larger trees (3 to 4 feet or more in height) are usually available "balled and burlapped" – that is, the plants are dug with a soil ball that is wrapped in burlap that is then tied together. A wire cage is clamped around the root ball of larger trees to protect it from being damaged during moving, handling, and planting. For more information on selecting and planting trees, see Fact Sheet 1014, Preparation for Planting Landscape Plants.
Understanding Tree Names
Trees have both scientific and common names. While most people find common names easier to remember and pronounce, it is important to realize that some trees have several common names, and some common names describe more than one plant. However, the scientific name is specific to one plant, and if you use it, you can be certain that you are getting the exact plant you want.
The scientific name, which is always italicized, underlined, or in bold type, consists of the genus name and the specific epithet. For example, the genus name for pine is Pinus, and names such as densiflora and sylvestris are specific epithets. Within the genus are many species, such as Pinus densiflora and Pinus sylvestris. The common name for Pinus densiflora is Japanese Red Pine, and the common name for Pinus sylvestris is Scotch Pine.
There may be several selections of Pinus densiflora known as "cultivars" or "varieties." A cultivar is a plant that has been selected for specific qualities, such as height, shape, disease resistance, or foliage color. For example, some of the cultivars of Pinus densiflora are 'Globosa,' Pendula,' and 'Tiny Temple.' Cultivar names are always set off in single quotes. Varieties are naturally occurring variations within a species.
Evergreen Tree Information
This fact sheet contains some basic information about the various types of evergreen trees recommended for Ohio. All of these species are hardy to USDA hardiness zones in Ohio, which means that they can withstand the lowest average winter temperatures and survive.
General remarks and cultural requirements for each genus are given first. Mature plant size under average landscape conditions as well as rate of growth are shown for each species. Cultural requirements for an individual species are listed only if they differ from general requirements.
When you have identified several trees that you think will fit your needs, you will want to obtain more detailed information about them. A list of suggested resources appears at the end of this publication.
Abies – Fir
Firs are not generally recommended for most of Ohio. They prefer moist, well-drained, acid soil and do not grow well in heavy clay. They also struggle in hot, dry summers. Concolor fir is considered the "best" one for the Midwest, and you may want to try it.
Name Height Growth Rate Comments
Abies concolor Concolor orWhite fir 35'50' in height,15'30' wide Slow to medium Provides a conical, rigid, stiff appearance in the landscape. Needles are blue or grayish-green. Transplant balled and bur- lapped. Withstands heat, cold, drought, and grows best on deep, rich, moist, well-drained sandy loam soil; does not grow well in heavy clay soil. Tolerates light shade.
Chamaecyparis – Falsecypress
Falsecypress grows best in rich, moist, well-drained soil, in a location where it receives full sun (at least six hours of direct sun) and where it is protected from drying winds. Pruning to control size and shape is best done in spring, but branches can be removed at any time. Many dwarf cultivars, which remain smaller or shrubby, are available.
Name Height Growth Rate Comments
Chamaecyparisnootkatensis NootkaFalsecypress,Alaska-cedar 30'50' in height Medium 'Pendula' is a widely available cultivar, which has a conical shape with uplifted branches and long, pendulous branchlets in flattened sprays. Foliage is a rich lustrous green. This tree requires abundant moisture.
Chamaecyparisobtusa HinokiFalsecypress Dwarf cultivarsare available. Rarely used asa tree. Medium Pyramidal, with spreading branches and drooping, feathery branchlets of rich emerald green. Many cultivars offered, including dwarf types and those with bluish or yellowish foliage. 'Nana Gracilis' grows slowly to 10'12' in height, has glossy dark-green foliage arranged in curving sprays, and is one of the most popular dwarf conifers.
Picea – Spruce
Most spruces are large trees of pyramidal to conical outline, conveying a rather formal quality. Even older specimens retain a dense, compact form, remaining attractive and symmetrical over a long period of time. Their size and strong vertical lines can be overwhelming in a small landscape. They perform well in clay soil, but prefer a moderately moist, well-drained soil. It is important to provide them adequate moisture, especially in the first few years of establishment. Spruces grow best in full sun and do not tolerate hot, dry, or polluted conditions. Prune to control size or shape by eliminating or reducing the new growth in early spring.
Name Height Growth Rate Comments
Picea abies Norway Spruce 40'60' in height,25'30' wide. Dwarf cultivarsare available. Medium to fast(fast when young) Needles are 1/2" to 1" long, stiff, and lustrous, dark green. Stiffly pyramidal in youth, developing graceful, pendulous branchlets over time, and an overall softly pyramidal outline. Numerous cultivars are available, including weeping forms and dwarf, shrubby forms.
Picea glauca White Spruce 40'60' in height,10'20' wide. Dwarf cultivarsare available. Medium Needles are 1/2" to 3/4" long, pale-green or covered with awhitish "bloom" that easily rubs off. White spruce forms abroad, dense cone in youth, becoming a tall, fairly narrow spire.Useful as a specimen, mass planting, hedge, or windbreak. Best infull sun, but tolerant of some shade. Tolerates heat, cold, droughtand wind better than most spruces.
P. g. 'Conica' Dwarf AlbertaSpruce 10'12' in heightin 25 to 30 years Slow This is a widely available cultivar, with dense, light- green foliageand very slow growth (2"4" per year). Spruce spider mites are usually a problem.
Picea omorika Serbian Spruce 50'60' in height,20'-25' wide. Slow Needles are 1/2" to 1" long, glossy dark-green on the upper surface.Serbian spruce is an exceptionally handsome tree, with a slendertrunk and short branches that are ascending on the upper portion ofthe tree and drooping on the lower portion, forming a slenderpyramid about one-fourth as wide as it is tall. Highly recommended as aspecimen or in group plantings.
Picea orientalis Oriental Spruce 50'60' in height. Smaller formsare available. Slow Needles are 1/4" to 1/2" long, glossy dark-green. A dense, compact, narrow pyramid, Oriental spruce is rated by Dr. Dirr as "muchsuperior to Norway or White Spruce." Several cultivars are available.Will tolerate poor, gravelly soils. Protect from harsh winter winds.
Picea pungens Colorado Spruce 30'60' in height,10'20' wideSmaller anddwarf cultivarsare available. Slow to medium(30'50' in heightafter 35 to 50years) Needles are 3/4" to 1-1/4" long, stout, rigid, and very prickly;usually gray-green to blue-green. A dense, regular, narrow tobroad pyramid with tiers of horizontal stiff branches to theground, sometimes losing their lower limbs and becomingstraggly and irregular with age. Blue cultivars widely used as focalpoints include 'Hoopsii' and 'Thompsenii' ('Thompsen.')
Pinus - Pine
Of all the needle-type evergreens, the pines display the greatest variety of shape and form, natural distribution, and ornamental characteristics. Most species grow to become large trees, but several types remain small. Pines are generally more tolerant of adverse soil, exposure, and city conditions than species of Picea or Abies. Full sun sites are best for pines, and they require well-drained, slightly acidic soil.
Pines withstand pruning and can be maintained as hedges, screens, and windbreaks. However, it is important to note that unlike spruce and fir, almost all pines lose lower limbs as they mature, so the hedge or screen effect is eventually lost. To make a pine tree more dense, remove one-half of the new candle-growth, usually in June. Water newly planted trees regularly for the first year. Before planting large specimens or dense groupings on small properties, consider the problems of unwanted winter shade, interference with air movement, and overwhelming size.
Pines are easily distinguished from other evergreens in that the needles are arranged in "bundles" of 2, 3, or 5. Other evergreen trees have needles attached singly on the branches.
Name Height Growth Rate Comments
Pinus bungeana Lacebark Pine 30'50' in height,20'25' wide. Slow Needles are in bundles of 3; 2"4" long, rigid, sharp- pointed,lustrous medium to dark-green. Pyramidal to rounded in outline when young, this pine develops an open, picturesque, flat-toppedand broad spreading habit. It is often grown with multiple trunks.Its bark exfoliates in patches like a sycamore, making this one ofthe best pines for bark character.
Pinus densiflora Japanese Red Pine 40'60' in height,similar in width. Smaller formsavailable. Slow to medium Needles are in bundles of 2; 3"5" long, soft, lustrous bright todark-green. Irregular in habit, Japanese Red Pine is sometimesdescribed as an open, floppy grower, even when young. Its trunkis often artistically crooked or leaning; its branches horizontallyspreading; its crown rather broad and flat. Bark is orangish whenyoung, becoming grayish with age. Useful as a specimen becauseof its interesting form and decorative bark. 'Umbraculifera' is themost widely grown cultivar. Cannot tolerate hot, dry winds.
Pinus mugo Swiss MountainPine, Mugo Pine Dwarf forms areavailable andmost common. Slow Needles are in bundles of 2; 1" to 3" long, rigid, medium to dark- green. Plants are of variable habit, from ground-hugging to pyramidal. Pinus mugo has numerous cultivars available. Prune annually to retain dwarf size. Tolerates partial shade.
Pinus nigra Austrian Pine 50'60' in height,20'40' wide. Medium Needles are in bundles of 2; 3"5" long, lustrous, dark- green. Wonderfully attractive bark as plant matures. Tolerates heavy claysoil and alkaline conditions. Withstands dryness and exposurebetter than other pines. However, this pine is not recommended forcentral Ohio at this time, due to widespread dieback caused byDiplodia (Sphaeropsis) tip blight, a fungal disease.
Pinus parviflora JapaneseWhite Pine 25'50' in height,similar in width. Slow Needles in bundles of 5; 1-1/4" to 2-1/2" long, rather stiff, usuallytwisted, bluish-green or grass-green. Pyramidal when young,developing wide-spreading branches, a flat-topped outline, attractive dark-gray scaly bark, and an appealing character. This pine isa good choice for small spaces. Salt tolerant.
Pinus strobus EasternWhite Pine 50'80' in height,20'40' wide.Smaller anddwarf cultivarsare available. Fast, growing50'75' in25 to 40 years. Needles in bundles of 5; 2"4" long; soft, bluish green. Young treesform symmetrical pyramids, and mature trees develop a distinctivelyattractive plume-like crown. Experience suggests that whitepines are very demanding in terms of their cultural requirements.The primary necessity is excellent drainage. Because of the heavyclay soils typical in parts of Ohio, these trees often die fromstanding in waterlogged ground. Light shade is tolerated. Theymay develop chlorosis (yellowing due to lack of iron) in high pH soil.
Pinus sylvestris Scotch Pine 30'60' in height,30'40' wide.Dwarf formsare available. Medium whenyoung, slowwhen older. Needles are in bundles of 2; variable in length from 1"3" long,twisted and stiff; glaucous, blue-green. Young Scotch pines growas irregular pyramids. As they age, their lower branches die off,leaving mature trees attractively open, with wide-spreadingbranches and flat or round-topped crowns. Upper portions oftrunks have handsome, orangish, flaky bark. Must have well-drained soil, preferably acidic. Also susceptible to Diplodia tipblight (Sphaeropsis).
Thuja - Arborvitae
Arborvitaes are generally considered to be shrubs, but some species grow tall enough to use as trees. Many types have a tendency to discolor in the winter, with the center foliage browning in the fall, and to develop a thin and shabby appearance with age. Arborvitaes should be planted in fertile, moist, well-drained soil. They are at their best in full sun, but light shade is acceptable. In heavy shade they lose their dense character and become loose and open in habit. Pruning should be done in early spring before active growth begins.
Name Height Growth Rate Comments
Thuja occidentalis Eastern orAmericanArborvitae,White Cedar 20'30' in height,10'15' wide. Smaller anddwarf formsare available. Slow tomedium Useful as a specimen or accent, good for hedges and windbreaks, and widely used in foundation plantings. Recommended cultivarsinclude 'Emerald' ('Smaragd'), which grows 10'15' in height by3'4' wide, with vertical sprays of bright, lustrous, emerald-green foliage. 'Emerald' holds its color well through the winter,is cold-hardy to -40ºF, and offers good heat tolerance. 'Nigra' is a narrow pyramidal form, 20'30' in height by 4'5'wide, with good dark-green foliage persisting through the winter. 'Techny' ('Mission') is a very popular, broad-based pyramidalform with excellent dark-green foliage year-round. This cultivar isslow-growing to 10'15' in height. It makes a good hedge plant,and is probably the best cultivar for northern gardens. Susceptibleto damage from strong winds, snow or ice loads. Once established,this tree exhibits considerable heat and drought tolerance.
Thuja plicata Giant Arborvitae 50'70' in height,15'25' wide. Slow to medium Useful as a specimen and good in hedges in formal and semi-formal plantings. Numerous cultivars are available.
Tsuga - Hemlock
Hemlocks generally grow to be graceful pyramidal trees, which retain their attractive character into old age. This is the best evergreen tree for shady locations – hemlocks will survive even in full shade (although growth will not be as dense) but partial or light shade is preferred. If grown in full sun, hemlocks require good drainage and plenty of organic matter in the soil. Hemlocks are excellent for hedges and screens, groupings and accents. They will tolerate clay soil, as long as it does not remain waterlogged, but grow best in well-drained, moist, acidic soil. They do not perform well under hot, extremely dry conditions; they do not withstand air pollution and are susceptible to salt damage. They will withstand heavy pruning, best done in spring or summer. Sweeping winds dry out the foliage, so hemlocks are not suitable for windswept sites. Mulch to retain soil moisture, and water regularly during dry periods.
Name Height Growth Rate Comments
Tsuga canadensis Canadian orEastern Hemlock 40'70' in height,25'35' wide. Smaller anddwarf formsare available. Medium (25'50'in 15 to 30 years). Hemlocks retain their relaxed conical outlines as they age, the branches merely becoming more pendulous. New growth inspring is yellow-green, maturing in summer to a glossy dark green.A multitude of cultivars exist, offering an extensive range of habits. Globose (rounded), fastigiate (tall narrow), weeping, variegated,and even prostrate groundcover types are available. Hemlocks frequently die in the landscape due to improper siting.
Tsuga caroliniana Carolina Hemlock 45'60' in heightand 20' wide. Slow tomedium(slower thanCanadian) More "stiff" in habit than Canadian. Requires moist, well-drainedsoil, partial shade, and protected location. Not tolerant of drought.Rare in the trade.
Deciduous Conifers
As mentioned in the introduction, these plants have needle-like foliage that appears to be "evergreen," but, in fact, these plants lose their foliage as the dormant season approaches.
Name Height Growth Rate Comments
Larix decidua Common Larch 70'75' in height,25' wide. Medium to fast Useful as a specimen or in groups. Fall color is yellow, oftenexcellent. Grows best in well-drained soil, full sun. A fewcultivars are available.
Metasequoiaglyptostroboides Dawn Redwood 70'100' in height,25' wide. Fast, as muchas 50' in 20 years. Excellent tree for large areas, effective as a screen. Strongly pyramidal, even into older age. Reddish-brown bark when young; darker, fissured, and exfoliating in older age. A few cultivars areavailable. Fall color is reddish to orangish-brown in fall. Growsbest in well-drained, slightly acid soil, and in full sun.
Taxodiumdistichum CommonBaldcypress 50'70' in height,25' wide. Medium A tree of notable texture and form – a good specimen plant. Goodfor wet areas, forming "knees" in shallow water around the edgesof ponds. Full sun. A few cultivars are available. Pyramidal whenyoung, maturing to a flat-topped, picturesque plant in old age. Thebark is reddish-brown.
 

If growth is untidy, cut plants back in midseason to about 1 inch above the main stem (2 or 3 inches above the soil level). Plants will renew leaves and produce occasional flowers during the remainder of the growing season.
Growing geraniums in southern regions with high summer heat and humidity may be a challenge, but a midseason cutback of leaves will frequently renew the plant. Give G. pratense a mulch around its roots if you live where summers are very hot.
As a general rule of thumb, geraniums do best in morning sun and afternoon although some geraniums such as G. sanguineum (zones 5to 9) and G. pratense thrive in full sun.
Propagate species types by seed, but any named varieties, such as 'Johnson's Blue', must be propagated by division of the crowns or by root cuttings. Do either in early spring.
Using Hardy Geraniums in the Garden
Hardy geraniums make landscape problems a virtue. Here are my recommendations for some specific garden situations.
Shade
For shady areas, our native East Coast wildflower, G. maculatum (zones 4 to 9), is unrivaled. The best selections have inch-sized light pink flowers that fade to cream in the center.
Deep shade is always a problem for gardeners. G. nodosum (zones 5 to 9) does well in these conditions, forming small colonies of slightly shiny mid-green leaves with scattered funnel-shaped flowers in light lilac to quite dark pink.
If you would like an imposing plant that will form a clump in the shade, G. phaeum (zones 3 to 9)--particularly the wonderful form 'Samobor'--is a good choice. 'Samobor' has maroon blotches on its leaves and reddish maroon flowers. There is an ethereal white form, G. phaeum 'Album' that harmonizes beautifully with green and white variegated plants and also some dark forms with rich, dark chocolate-colored flowers.
A well-known, widely available hardy geranium for shade is G. endressii 'Wargrave Pink' . There are many other varieties of this species available.
The last time I counted, there were 34 named varieties of G. oxonianum (zones 5 to 9). In my opinion, the four best are: 'A.T. Johnson' (luminous pink); 'Phoebe Nobel' (dark pink); 'Winscombe' (pale pink fading to dark pink); and 'Walter's Gift' (pale pink flowers with darker veins and leaves marked with maroon). Grow any of these in shade to partial sun, and shear them to the ground in midseason to produce new leaves and new flowers.
Ground Covers
My two favorites are varieties of G. macrorrhizum 'Ingwersen's Variety' and 'Czakor' (both hardy in zones 3 to 9). The former has aromatic leaves, which smell of balsam or pine, and pale pink flowers. 'Czakor' has strong magenta-colored flowers. Both are aggressive, weed smothering, very attractive ground covers. In mild-winter regions, they remain evergreen all year.
A less aggressive offspring of G. macrorrhizum is G. cantabrigiense (zones 4 to 9). There are two fine color forms: 'Biokovo' (white with a flush of pink) and 'Cambridge' (mid-pink with a slightly paler throat).
In Rock Gardens or Containers
If you wish to put a geranium in a specialized location, such as in a container on a porch or patio or in a rock garden, you might like to try the neat and compact G. cinereum 'Ballerina' or G. cinereum subcaulescens (zones 4 to 9). The former has inch-wide pale lavender flowers with wine-colored veins that contrast pleasantly with its ash-gray leaves. Or consider the flat little mound of brown leaves formed by the more cold-tender G. sessiliflorum 'Nigricans' (zones 8 to 10). Its flowers, however, are small, white, and in hiding. G. dalmaticum (zones 4 to 9), with nickel-sized leaves and a flush of pale pink flowers in late spring, is more showy.
Perennial Border
Perhaps you are hoping to fill a perennial border this year or tuck a geranium in some sunny location in the garden. G. sanguineum should be on everyone's list. Particularly nice forms to try are G. sanguineum striatum with pale pink flowers and deep pink veins; 'Cedric Morris' with large, mid-green leaves and 1 1/4-inch light magenta flowers; or the beautiful G. sanguineum 'Album', which is more open and billowy in habit than the other two selections and whose flowers are pure white.
Blue Flowers
Are you crazy about blue in the garden? I've mentioned the violet-blue flowers of G. magnificum. The hybrid G. 'Spinners' (zones 4 to 9) also has deep blue flowers, but there is a hint of mauve to the color. 'Johnson's Blue' (zones 4 to 9) is a clear sky blue, and G. wallichianum 'Buxton's Variety' (zones 6 to 9) is also a light blue, but the center of each flower is white, and the leaves are faintly mottled in a lighter creamy green. G. himalayense (zones 5 to 9) has deep blue flowers that fade toward red in the center of the petals. There is double form of G. himalayense 'Birch Double', with smaller, lilac blue flowers. Perhaps you would like a paler color? G. pratense 'Mrs. Kendall Clarke' is a pale gray blue with gray veins.
White Flowers
If you are looking for white, G. clarkii 'Kashmir White' (zones 3 to 9) is a good choice. The flowers are quite large. They are white but with lilac veins, and there is a faint lavender wash over the petals. They look like a host of butterflies fluttering over the surface of the finely dissected leaves.
A geranium that has a very long flowering season, but, alas, is only hardy in zones 8 to 9, is G. riversleaianum 'Mavis Simpson'. Its pale pink flowers start in early spring and continue until early fall, forming a charming contrast with its gray-green leaves.
Magenta Flowers
If you would like to make a dramatic statement in the garden, there are two magenta geraniums that draw the eye like a magnet. G. psilostemon (zones 5 to 9) forms, over a number of years, an imposing clump of dinner-plate-sized, mid-green leaves through which branched flowering stems bear an endless succession of inch-sized, black-eyed, magenta flowers. A more sprawling plant, and one of the finest geraniums for the perennial border, is its hybrid offspring 'Ann Folkard' (zones 5 to 9), whose purplish magenta flowers with their dark eyes form a fine contrast with chartreuse leaves. 'Ann Folkard' also blooms over a long period--from spring to fall.
Growing hardy geraniums is a dangerous passion. There are so many wonderful plants to choose from. They are becoming widely available in the United States and Canada though mail-order nurseries, and most gardeners find it impossible to stop at only one.
 
 

Heathers are low-growing, shrub-like perennials that blossom into a sea of color. They look great planted with dwarf conifers, especially when a variety of shapes, colors and textures are used. Interplant late flowering varieties with deciduous plants that have colorful foliage in the fall for a striking display, and use them in camellia and rhododendron beds to add summer color. They are also used in rock gardens and as groundcovers.
Heathers enjoy an sunny site with good air circulation and an acid soil that doesn’t dry out or become waterlogged. Acid soil is a must for summer heathers, and if your pH is too high, you should amend with aluminum sulfate before planting if necessary. Pale leaves and slow growth indicate that the soil is not acid enough.
You can help the soil retain moisture in the heat of summer by applying a mulch. Two inches of bark chips or cocoa shells make a good mulch for a bed of heathers.
Care and Maintenance
Use a fertilizer designed for acid-loving plants in spring and at regular intervals through the growing season as the package directs. It’s best to use a soluble fertilizer rather than one that has to be worked into the soil because the roots are very shallow, and you can easily damage them by trying to cultivate around the plants. To encourage strong growth, shear off the plants in early spring before flowering begins.
Heathers are susceptible to fungus, and if your summers are hot and humid, you may want to have a fungicide on hand so you can treat your plants at the first sign of infection.
Taking Cuttings
The best time to propagate heathers is mid- to late summer. Fill a pot with a mixture of half sand and half sterile peat moss, and make holes for your cuttings with a thin twig.
Clip a 1-1/2 inch piece from the tip of a non-flowering shoot. Make sure the shoot is from the current season’s growth. Strip the foliage from the lower half of the stem with your fingers, taking care not to damage the stem, and dip the lower end of the stem in rooting hormone. Make sure the rooting hormone covers the part of the stem where you have removed the foliage, then tap gently to remove the excess.
Place the cuttings in the holes that you have prepared and water the pot thoroughly but gently so as not to disturb the cuttings. Once the pot has drained, cover it with a plastic bag, making sure the sides of the bag don’t touch your plants. If necessary, insert a few twigs in the soil to hold the bag away from the plants. Leave the bag in place for 6-8 weeks.
Hostas
Hostas
 Hosta 'Patriot'
One of my old standbys is the hosta. They are great in shade, but surprisingly, those with gold or chartreuse coloring, such as Hosta 'Paradise Joyce', H. 'Sagae', H. Sum and Substance and H. Guacamole will take full sun. 'Guacamole' has been called the best hosta ever made by many hosta-philes.
All of these lovely plants create an attractive mounded shape in the garden and ask almost nothing of the gardener. They do well even in drought (even though traditionally they are native to moist areas) and have few problems, except slugs. And those with thick leaves, like H. Sum and Substance, H. sieboldiana 'Elegans' and H. 'Bressingham Blue' have leaves with such heavy substance that the slugs are too lazy to bother with them. In shady areas, those with a lot of white like H. 'Patriot', H. 'Fire and Ice' and H. 'Revolution literally glow. Plus, these hostas send up multiple spikes of flowers in purple, lilac or white that are great for cutting. Many of the white flowering hostas, including 'Guacamole,' are also fragrant.
Hosta
Latin Name: Hosta species and cultivars
 

Characteristics:
· 6 inches to 36 inches tall · Lavender, blue, white blooms, some fragrant · Flowers summer · Partial sun to shade · Zones 3-9 · Use in border, containers, and as groundcover

Description: Excellent foliage plant for shade gardens. Slender, lance-shape, heart-shape, or rounded leaves in chartreuse, green, or blue, often variegated or edged in white or gold. May be bothered by slugs or black vine weevils.
 
 

Lovely lacy leaves and a graceful aspect make these small trees an asset in any yard.
You can hardly go wrong with Japanese maples. Most have an exquisitely layered, cascading form, an elegant, fine leaf texture, and remarkable fall color. Among the many varieties, there are maples with yellow-green, purple, red, bronze, and variegated leaves. And their sizes suit any landscape, varying from 3-foot dwarfs to slow-growing 15-footers. Japanese maples can get a little pricey, so consider them an investment in your home.
Many Japanese maples have a wonderful way of spreading in the shape of low graceful domes. On a slope or overhang, their arching branches can descend even below the base of the trunk. See the way this laceleaf pours over the retaining wall echoing the pond's waterfall?

Recommended Japanese Maples

 Leaf Characteristicso broad, flat leaves o simple leaves o palmately lobed o notches V-shaped o teeth pointed o with 5 -11 lobes o lobe bases narrow o teeth regular o lobes long   Fruit Characteristicso paired wingso wings 60 to 90 degrees apart o winged seed about 3/4" long
  Japanese MapleAcer palmatum The Japanese Maple is native to Japan, where it is very popular, and to Korea. Horticulturists brought it to this country about 1820. Over the years, nurseries in both Japan and the United States have stocked dozens of varieties of this admired tree. The bark of this tree is gray and smooth. Sometimes it grows as a shrub. The Japanese Maple grows well in moist but well-drained, rich soils with plenty of organic material. It is somewhat more tolerant of heat than is the Fullmoon Maple. People commonly plant the Japanese Maple in gardens and in other places where they want an eye-catching tree.     Tree Size      height   15' - 25'       Bark
 

You can always count on fragrant purple lilacs blooming in springtime, especially in the state of New Hampshire. Going back in time some two- hundred fifty years ago, research shows that purple lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) were first imported to America from England in the year 1750. They were initially planted at Governor Benning Wentworth's home in Portsmouth, New Hampshire.
Many flowers were favored and promoted in lengthy and often heated battles about which one would best serve as New Hampshire's state flower. Some rivals of the purple lilac included the buttercup, goldenrod, Mayflower, wood lily, purple aster, apple blossom, and the evening primrose. The last lengthy battle was between the evening primrose and the purple lilac.
Since the purple lilac proved to be a very hardy shrub, it seems only fitting that it was finally adopted as New Hampshire's official state flower on March 28, 1919. As recorded in his book "To This Day," New Hampshire historian Leon Anderson writes that the purple lilac was chosen because ". . . it is symbolic of that hardy character of the men and women of the Granite State." [New Hampshire Revised Statute Annotated [RSA] 3:5].
Today, fragrant purple lilacs bloom profusely in towns, hamlets, and farms throughout the state of New Hampshire. Their fame, fragrance, and beauty have long since spread across all of America and other countries as well.
Lilacs have been loved for many generations, both for their beauty and for their irresistible fragrance. They have often been labeled as a "poor man's flower" as they are among the easiest of flowering shrubs to propagate. Lilacs are also reminiscent of springtime, young love, grandparents, romantic poetry and other writings . Illustrations of colorful lilac blossoms can be found on greeting cards, gift wrap, stationary, perfumes, sachets, fabrics, and breathtakingly beautiful paintings and photographs.
Since those first purple lilacs were imported to New Hampshire, hundreds of new species and hybrids have been developed in America and in other countries. Some of those countries include France, China, Eastern Europe, Korea, Persia, Hungary, and Japan. A unique cultivar of the Syringa vulgaris aptly named "Rochester" has been developed in America. This species differs from other lilacs in that it has five lobes on each floret instead of the usual four. As an interesting side note, Rochester, New Hampshire is known as "The Lilac City."
Lilacs come in a wonderful array of colors today that include violet, pink, blue, magenta, white to creamy white, lilac, and purple, depending on their species. Common lilacs (Syringa vulgaris) are hardy deciduous shrubs with heart-shaped leaves of deep green. Their fragrant blossoms consist of large clusters formed by a myriad of tiny florets, and are borne at the ends of its branches. It's not unusual for the common lilac to grow to 15-20 feet tall.
A very popular flowering shrub, lilacs serve many purposes in gardens. They are wonderful planted as hedges, or perhaps as screens between neighboring yards. Planted as single specimen shrubs, they are truly showstoppers when in full bloom during mid-spring. Their fragrant blossoms linger for many weeks, whether left on the bush or cut for long- lasting nostalgic bouquets. Dwarf varieties that reach only 3 to 3-1/2 feet are favorites for small cottage gardens. Cottage gardeners favor lilacs for they are harbingers of spring, their refreshing perfumed blossoms chasing away winter's gloom.
Tips for Growing Beautiful, Fragrant Lilac
- Soil, Sunshine, and Water
Lilacs prefer well-drained, alkaline soil and plenty of sunshine for optimum growth and blooming. If your soil leans toward being acidic, amend it by cultivating some lime into it before planting your lilacs. It's also best to select a site where your lilacs won't be exposed to the wind. Although lilacs love water, they don't enjoy soggy soil. Without proper drainage, lilacs will do little growing and produce fewer blossoms.
- Site, Spacing, and Planting
For best results, purchase lilacs from a nursery or garden center where they have been growing in containers. Should you have a large garden area where you want to plant several lilacs of different colors in a group, keep in mind that they will need room to spread. Space larger varieties at least 12-15 feet apart to provide them the spreading room they need. Smaller or dwarf varieties will require less spreading space. Making sure your lilacs have ample room to spread before planting them will prevent future transplanting problems.
- Proper Aftercare Promotes Healthy Lilacs
After your lilacs are planted, it is essential to water them regularly during hot summer months. Mulching them with a layer of pine bark will help prevent them from becoming heat-stressed, as mulch helps the soil retain water. Remember not to overwater and always provide adequate drainage.
All plants need nutrients, and lilacs are no exception. Fertilizing with a reliable 5-10-5 fertilizer in the spring is appropriate for lilacs. Check with your local nursery or garden center if you're uncertain about which fertilizer is best for your particular species. Avoid over-fertilizing as this produces more foliage and fewer blossoms.
Removing any spent flower clusters shortly after they have finished blooming is recommended. This prevents them from forming more seeds than flower buds for the following spring. After the blossoms are all spent for the summer, you may wish to prune your lilac bushes lightly just to reshape them. You can also help control your lilac's growth in the first few years by doing very light pruning and shaping. Hard pruning isn't necessary unless you need to reduce the size of your bush or rejuvenate an older plant.
- Some "Bugaboos" to Watch For
Nobody likes to think that their lovely lilacs will ever be invaded by nasty "bugaboos!" However, they can be attacked by leaf miners, stem borers, or scale. Other problems that could be bothersome include mildew, leaf spot, and bacterial blight. Treat any such problems properly treated to maintain healthy growth of your lilacs. Check with a reliable nursery or garden center for the best treatment of these problems.

Marigolds are easy to grow and have a long flowering period. African marigolds have a upright growth and can reach a height of 30-40 inches, while French marigolds grow to only 8-16 inches. The scent is strong and somewhat unpleasant, and is effective in repelling many garden pests. African marigolds come in shades of yellow and orange, while French marigolds are often multicolored in shades of orange, yellow, mahogany and crimson. Both are suitable for massed plantings or pots. They are attractive as cut flowers if the scent isn't a problem. Change the water in the vase frequently.
Marigolds can be grown in all but the coldest climates. Marigolds can be sown directly in the garden when danger of frost has passed, or they can be started indoors for earlier blooms. Space the plants 8-16 inches apart depending on the variety. Water deeply and regularly, especially in hot weather. Mulching between plants will help to conserve moisture. Sidedress monthly once plants are established. If given an early start, they will bloom throughout summer and autumn. Some will flower into winter in warmer areas. Marigolds are sometimes attacked by whiteflies and mites. Regular hosings will keep these pests from becoming established.
Type: annualPropagation: seedsLight: full sunFlower Color: orange and yellow, also mahogany and crimson for French marigoldsBloom Time: summer and autumn, into winter for some varietiesHeight: 8-16 inches for French; up to 40 inches for AfricanWidth: 12 inchesSoil Requirements: well drainedZones: all but the coldest areasUses: massed displays, pots
 
 

   Black Oak(Yellow Oak) Quercus velutina This is a large tree, sometimes growing more than 100 feet in height. At 104 feet, the tallest example in Ohio lives in Summit County. Another massive specimen in Pike County has an average crown spread of 93 feet. The thick, nearly black bark is marked with deep furrows and irregularly broken ridges. The characteristic inner bark is bright yellow to orange, hence the alternate common name. This tree grows on dry uplands, slopes and ridges. It occurs generally throughout Ohio, but is most abundant in the eastern part of the state and on the ancient, sandy beech ridges near Lake Erie. The wood, while hard and strong is not tough, checks while drying and generally is inferior to that of the Red Oak. Still, it is used in much the same ways. Historically, the inner bark was important for its tannin and as a source of yellow dye. The bitter acorn is inedible.
 

  Red Oak(Northern Red Oak)Quercus rubra The bark darkens and roughens near the base of older trees, while becoming fissured with broad, grayish ridges on the upper trunk. The tree grows on rich, well-drained soils. It occurs commonly throughout most of Ohio, except in poorly-drained or swampy areas. The wood is similar to that of the White Oak, and although more porous and less resistant to decay, is used extensively used in construction and interior work. The Red Oak grows more rapidly than most oaks and is useful for planting in residential areas. The acorns are not as tasty as those of the White Oak, but many kinds of wildlife feed on them.
 

 
  Scarlet OakQuercus coccinea The impressive fall coloration of the leaves gives this tree its common name. It is an upland tree, growing in sandy and gravelly soils on ridges, bluffs, and dry slopes. In Ohio, it mainly is found in the southern and eastern parts of the state. The coarse-grained, strong wood has similar uses to that of Red Oak, but is considered by some to be inferior. The tree grows rapidly, and with its attractive foliage makes a desirable ornamental or shade tree. Wildlife make some use of the acorns as food.

 White OakQuercus alba This is one of the largest trees of forests in the eastern United States. The tallest known in Ohio today is an 84-foot tree in Mahoning County. The distinctive bark is light ash-gray in color, and often fissured into scaly plates. The tree grows best on deep, well-drained upland soils. Still, it is found in a wide variety of habitats throughout Ohio, probably occurring in every county. The close-grained, strong wood is one our best for furniture and hardwood flooring. Native American Indians made flour from its acorns. Both Indians and early settlers boiled the acorns to make them more palatable. Many kinds of wildlife feed on the acorns as well.    Tree Size     height 60' - 100'    diameter 2' - 4'   Bark
 

Kinds of Roses
Roses are classified by their growth habits into two main classes--bush roses and climbing roses. Climbing roses produce long canes and require some kind of support. Bush roses grow to 1 to 6 feet in height and require no support.
Bush Roses. These roses are grouped primarily according to their flowering habit. The kinds of bush roses are hybrid tea, grandiflora, floribunda, polyantha, hybrid perpetual, shrub, old fashioned, tree or standard, and miniature.
Hybrid Teas--In the mid-nineteenth century, the first hybrid tea rose was developed by crossing the wispy canes of the tea rose with the full blossomed and vigorous hybrid perpetual rose. In the past 50 years this rose has become the primary rose in gardens and florist shops. Thousands of varieties are grown today, with many new ones developed each year. Usually a single bloom develops on a robust stem. Flowers of hybrid teas are most often used as cut flowers. Although the size, shape, and color of hybrid tea roses vary enormously, they all share a characteristic beauty. Hybrid teas are continuous bloomers.
Floribundas--These roses are the result of a cross between a hybrid tea rose and a polyantha, a dwarf rose with dense bunches of tiny flowers. Floribundas flower in clusters. Floribundas tolerate more neglect than any kind of rose except shrub roses. For color throughout the summer, floribundas may be used in flower borders and mass plantings and as informal hedges.
Grandifloras--Grandifloras resemble hybrid teas in their hardiness and type of bloom. The grandifloras have a larger bush, but more abundant, somewhat smaller blooms than the hybrid teas.
Polyanthas--Flowers are borne in large clusters and the individual flowers are smaller than grandifloras. Polyanthas are closely related to climbing roses. They are excellent for borders with perennials or for mass plantings. Furthermore, they are of easier culture than hybrid teas.
Hybrid Perpetuals--The blooms are full and spectacularly large but generally lack the refinement of hybrid teas. The hybrid perpetual blooms more frequently than older shrub rose varieties. Sometimes this rose is known as the "June rose" of grandmother's garden. The variety was most popular prior to the development of modern hybrid teas. If given proper care, hybrid perpetuals develop into large, vigorous bushes. Hybrid perpetuals are hardy and withstand low winter temperatures without protection.
Shrub Roses. These are a miscellaneous group of hybrids, native species, and varieties that develop a large, dense growth useful in general landscaping. Usually flowers are small but showy. In the fall, many bear attractive seed pods. Their fine-textured foliage makes some of them useful for hedges or screen plantings.
Old-Fashioned Roses--This category includes the varieties and species that were popular in colonial gardens. Although these roses are more fragrant, the flowers are not as perfectly shaped as those of newer varieties. All of these roses are hardy, require little care, and furnish an abundance of flowers in June. Thousands of old-fashioned roses are available, but many are not suited for the Alabama climate. Teas, noisettes, Bengals, Chinas, and some species roses are extremely well adapted to our heat and humidity.
Tree or Standard Roses--The characteristic of tree or standard roses is the form of the plant rather than the type of flower. These roses are derived from grafting bush roses on upright trunks. Many of the popular bush rose varieties are available as tree roses. Tree roses may be used in formal plantings, as accent or specimen plants, or as a specimen.
Miniature Roses--Miniature roses are small plants with miniature leaves and flowers. Some varieties reach a maximum height of only 6 inches. These roses are used in edging beds, as borders, in containers, and for rock gardens.
Climbing Roses. Rose varieties that produce long canes and require some sort of support to hold the plants off the ground are known as climbing roses. They may be trained on fences or trellises, while some varieties may be used without support to cover hillsides for erosion control. Since they are hardy, climbers are becoming more popular with the development of finer varieties.
Ramblers--Rapid growing and very hardy, rambler roses may develop canes as long as 20 feet in one season. They are better suited for our fences than other types of roses. The small flowers are usually less than 2 inches in diameter and are borne in dense clusters. Ramblers flower only once during a season on the previous year's growth. The glossy foliage of many varieties in this group is susceptible to mildew. Newer varieties that bear larger flowers and are less susceptible to mildew are being developed.
Large-Flowered Climbers--When compared to ramblers, large-flowered climbers grow very slowly. Usually they are trained on trellises, posts, or some other type of support, and they may require heavy annual pruning to keep them manageable. Under ideal growing conditions, the flowers are rather large and may be useful for cutting. Most varieties bloom best when the canes are trained horizontally.
Everblooming Climbers--These roses usually produce an abundance of flowers in early summer. After heavy bloom, going into the fall, these plants will produce some scattered flowers. Some everblooming climbers are available that bloom continuously, like hybrid teas.
Climbing Hybrid Teas--Climbing hybrid teas were developed from seedlings and as chance sports of bush varieties. When a cane having a climbing character is produced from a hybrid tea, the new type of plant is usually given the bush variety name. Example: Climbing Crimson Glory. In general, the climbing forms of hybrid teas do not bloom as continuously as their bush parents. The flowers and foliage are usually identical.
Climbing Polyanthas and Floribundas--These roses were developed from sports and seedlings of polyanthas and floribundas. Generally the flowers of these sports are identical with the bush forms from which they originated. They are fairly continuous bloomers.

Landscape Uses
Among the best flowers for use as color accents in the landscape are the floribundas, hybrid perpetuals, polyanthas, and grandifloras. They may be used in mass plantings, such as in shrubbery borders and at the base of hedges. Roses are rarely used as foundation plants since the beauty lies in the flowers rather than the plants, which are bare in winter. There are exceptions, such as the use today of one row of one of these four types of roses along a carport or along the side of a yard.
Climbing and rambler roses need the support of a post, trellis, or wall. Some houses with an informal design may lend themselves to the use of roses as "vines" over a door or upon a lamp post. These roses are excellent for landscape use along fences and walls.
Where full sun exposure is not possible, morning sun is better than afternoon sun. The ever-popular collection of tea roses in the rose cutting bed should be placed in an open area away from competition from roots of trees and landscape shrubs.

Planting Bare-Root Roses
When your plants arrive, remove the wrappings and place the roots in a bucket of warm water. Plants may be left in the water up to 24 hours prior to planting and this will help them begin the process of taking up water. Bushes to be planted should not be left out in the open overnight when freezing weather is expected. The combination of freezing temperatures and drying wind is especially lethal to roses. If planting must be delayed for a few days, place them in a cool, dark area or heel them in by making a trench and covering the roots with sawdust.

Spread roots over a mound of soil to assure proper drainage for plants. Apply water when filling soil around mound.
Before planting, prune off any damaged stems or roots of bare-root roses. Hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, and climbers should have the tops pruned back to 12 to 15 inches. Approximately one-third of the root system should be pruned off to stimulate new root growth.

Planting
Care taken in planting will be many times rewarded. The best rose plants on the market will give disappointing results if planted improperly. Roses can perform best in clay soil that is slightly acid (pH 5.5 to 6.5). It is important to have a soil test on the rose bed before you prepare it. The recommendations will help you determine what fertilizer to add to get your roses off to a good start.
Poorly drained soils should be avoided, since roses will not survive "wet feet" conditions. Eliminate hardpans by deep tillage or spading. Prepare the bed at least 6 inches deeper than the depth you plant the roses. Plan to plant roses at least 2 feet apart. This will provide access to sunlight and free circulation of air as the roses grow. To prevent spread of disease through poor air movement and impaired sunlight, avoid crowding roses.
If you plant only a few roses, dig individual holes. The holes should be at least 12 inches deep and 18 inches in diameter. If you are planting a large number of roses, prepare the bed by tilling the soil to a 12-inch depth. Then dig the planting holes in the prepared bed.
Two parts soil should be mixed with one part humus (leaf or manure compost, peat moss, pine bark, etc.). Fertilizer and lime should be mixed into the bed according to soil test recommendations. In the absence of a soil test in a previously used garden bed, add 4 pounds of 8-8-8, 12-6-6, or similar complete fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed.
Set plants in the hole on top of a mound made of the soil mix so that the bud union is just above ground level after the soil settles. If you are not sure about the ground level, lay a stick across the hole to determine ground level. Under no circumstances should the roots be twisted or forced into a ball in order to cram them into a small area. Place the soil around the roots, firming the soil by hand, and water the rose thoroughly.

Planting Potted Roses
If potted roses are to be planted, remove the plastic or papier-mache container in such a way as to keep the soil ball intact. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the soil ball. The planting depth should be the same as for bare-root roses. Place soil from the rose bed in the hole around the soil ball. Immediately after planting, water thoroughly to firm the soil around the roots. Do not tamp in the soil after watering the soil ball.
After planting tree roses, drive a sturdy pole into the soil beside the upright trunk and tie the trunk to the pole. This will prevent the trunk from whipping in the wind and loosening the roots.

Mulching
Mulches aid in controlling weeds, conserving moisture, and adding fertility. Some effective mulching materials are: pine bark, coarse textured peat, ground corncobs, pine straw, and well-rotted strawy manure. Apply mulches to a depth of 3 to 4 inches soon after planting. Reapply organic mulches each year to keep the depth to 4 inches.
A landscape fabric may be used under the organic mulches to improve weed control. In general, black plastic is not recommended in soils that are poorly drained.

Watering
Roses need large amounts of water. Occasional watering may be necessary even where rainfall is plentiful. Watering should be done in early morning. Avoid wetting the foliage as this will promote disease problems.
Soak the soil thoroughly to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, directing a small, slow-moving stream of water around the bases of the plants. In a clay soil, this can usually be accomplished with I inch of water applied weekly. Avoid using a heavy stream, as it is usually wasteful: most of the water runs off and fails to penetrate the soil more than a few inches.

Fertilizing
Test your soil before applying fertilizer. Your county Extension agent can provide you with soil testing information. He or she can also advise you on adjusting the pH or correcting any nutritional disorders.
The elements most often lacking in soils of existing rose beds are nitrogen and potassium. Although the amount of fertilizer to use should be based on soil test results, you will find that most garden soils of Alabama will benefit from two applications of 12-6-6 or 15-0-15 fertilizer at the rate of 2 pounds to each 100 square feet of bed, the first application coming in March and the second in July. Then in April, May, June, and August, most rose beds will require ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) at the rate of 1/2 pound to each 100 square feet of bed.

Pruning
Pruning roses improves the size, quality, and color of blooms. As soon as the danger of frost is over, you should get ready to prune. Select three to five vigorous, healthy canes to be left to produce flowers. The amount of pruning varies with the variety of rose. However, the first pruning should remove dead, damaged, or weak growth.
   For most rose buds, cuts should be made below the third true leaf. For occasional longer stems, stems may be cut above the first true leaf above the break. First year plants should be cut higher (at or near the first true leaf) to allow more leaves to remain on the plant and produce food.
Your pruning can also regulate the number of flowers produced. Leave longer canes if more flowers are desired. If large show-type blooms are desired, cut back to a few canes and head the remaining ones back to 12 to 14 inches above the ground.
Bush roses (grandifloras, hybrid teas, floribundas) should be pruned in early spring. Prune after the last frost has occurred or when buds begin to swell.
Hybrid Teas. Canes killed by cold, diseases, and insects should be removed first. Next remove all suckers growing below the graft union. Cut all the remaining canes back to 12 to 15 inches aboveground or to a bud 1 inch below any damaged part of the cane. NOTE: Be aware of any cold damage or disease tankers. Cold damage will appear as a browning of the stem and, most often, a brown pith or center of the cane. Cuts should be 1/4 inch above a bud and made at a 45-degree angle. On most varieties, to encourage growth away from the center of the bush, cut to an outside bud. Varieties that tend to spread will grow more erect if the canes are cut back to an inside bud. Leave only three or four sturdy canes when pruning for exhibition blooms. These canes should be pruned back severely. Plants should be well established before cutting. Growth can also be controlled by rubbing off new and weak shoots not needed for blooms. Only two or three of the strongest buds per cane should remain.
Prune tree roses in the same manner as hybrid teas by cutting back branches within 6 to 8 inches of the crown. Avoid letting the top get too heavy. Compact, vigorous new growth should be encouraged by cutting out weak branches.
     Floribundas and grandifloras should be opened up so as to allow more light in to the plant.

   After each flowering, prune climbing roses back as shown. Prune weak, diseased, or dead stems back anytime they are observed. Do not allow climbers to become overgrown, with thick, dense growth of branches.
Floribundas and Grandifloras. These roses should not be pruned as heavily as hybrid teas. Often these roses grow to a considerable height and produce more blooms. Cut back an inch below any darkened area to remove any dead and diseased wood. The entire branch should be removed if it is badly diseased or dead. Three to five strong, healthy canes should be left. Next, any canes having weak growth or those growing toward the center of the plant should be removed. Any remaining canes should be cut 18 to 24 inches above the ground, depending upon the plant's vigor.
Climbing Roses. Many of these roses bloom in early spring and need pruning at the end of flowering. Any new canes that have developed should be left since these will produce flowers the next year. Cut all old canes back to the ground immediately after flowering.
Some varieties of climbers will continue to bloom throughout the growing season. These varieties produce new canes from old canes rather than from the base of the plant. It is best to leave five or six strong healthy canes and to remove the older canes at the ground. Sometimes these remaining canes produce heavy branching. To control growth and encourage flowering, these lateral branches should be kept headed back. Faded flower clusters should be removed, too.
Climbing hybrid tea roses should be pruned lightly. Remove only weak, diseased, and dead wood.
Cutting Roses. Since cutting determines a plant's growth pattern, there are correct and incorrect ways of cutting roses.
The right way to cut a flower starts with proper equipment--clean, sharp shears or pruners and a pair of protective gloves because of thorns. Next, the proper place to cut should be determined. If a large, single, decorative flower is desired, disbud the plants early when the buds are small. Cut stems should be approximately 5 to 10 inches in length, depending on each plant.
Make the cut just above a five-leaflet node to promote a healthy flowering shoot to grow after the cut. Roses have three-, five-, and seven-leaflet nodes. The best place to cut the rose is just above a five-leaflet node because a strong shoot should emerge from just below the cut. This shoot should produce a good flower bud. The second-best cut would be just above the seven-leaflet node, and the third-best cut would be at a three-leaflet node.
Some roses may be harmed by too much cutting. In the spring, reduced growth may result from cutting a long stem, which removes a large number of leaves. Long-stemmed roses can be taken more safely after mid-season.
Some rose varieties may be rooted; however, it is advisable to purchase 2-year old budded plants from a reliable nursery. Many of the new varieties are difficult to propagate. Even if you root the new growth, the new plant will probably have a weak root system. Since many of the new varieties are patented, their propagation is illegal unless permission is granted from the introducer.
Treatment of Cut Roses for Longest Life--All cut flowers have a limited life, but there are some simple steps you can take to extend the enjoyment of your fresh roses. When you cut them outdoors, take a pail of warm water with you and place the roses in it immediately after cutting. Once you have collected all the roses for your enjoyment, take the pail inside.
Prepare your vase by adding a measured amount of pre-packaged floral food in warm water. The old tales of using an aspirin or copper penny don't work. Science has produced a food for flowers (not plant food) that meets all its needs and will help roses last for 7 to 10 days. Too much food is as bad for the rose as too little. Be sure to measure the amount of floral food you mix in the vase. Use warm water, not too hot or cold.
Once you have prepared the vase, you need to cut the rose stem. Roses will last several days longer if you re-cut their stems under water. Place the bottom 2 inches of the rose stem under water and make a sharp angled cut, removing the bottom 1 inch of the stem. You may even see a little air bubble emerging as you make the cut. Cutting rose stems under water can help extend the vase life of roses for several days. Don't submerge the entire rose under water as this won't help and can harm the rose by promoting disease problems.
Cut flowers, especially roses, may wilt prematurely but may be revived and their life extended for several days. A slanted cut should be made an inch or so from the base of the stem while holding the stem under water. Cutting stems underwater prevents an air bubble from entering the stem and blocking the uptake of water.
 

Snapdragons make excellent cutflowers and excel in beds and at the front of borders. Gardeners used to be less than enthusiastic about snapdragons as cut flowers because blossoms tended to "shatter"--drop off shortly after being fertilized by bees, but plant breeders have developed shatterproof strains. Snapdragons flourish in well-fertilized soil and full sun.

Sow seeds indoors eight weeks before the last frost. Moving seedlings outdoors as early as a the bed can be worked. They will tolerate frost. In Zones 8-10, seedlings started in a sheltered seedbed may be moved outdoors any time in the fall for winter and spring flowering. Plants should stand from 6 to 12 inches apart, depending on the size of the variety planted. Seedlings purchased from a garden center where conditions are carefully controled will usually bloom earlier than those started at home. If possible, choose rust resistant varieties. When the plants are 2 to 4 inches tall, pinch off the stem tips if shorter but more abundant flower spikes are desired. Then, as the flowers mature, use them freely for bouquets; the cutting will force plants to produce additional stems that will bloom later in the season. These plants will benefit from deadheading, which will prolong their flowering period.
The cultivar shown is "little darling".
Type: annualPropagation: seedsLight: full sun, part shadeFlower Color: variousBloom Time: summerHeight: 10 inches (dwarf) 18-24 inches (standard)Width: 6-12 inchesSoil Requirements: neutral pH, average moisture, well drained, Zones: allUses: cutting bed, border

Left: mature Yucca fruit which splits into segments, each containing a column of flattened seeds. Right: close-up showing part of a column of seeds that have been eaten by a moth grub - note the hole in the column of seeds.
This mutually beneficial arrangement is so tightly regulated that Yucca plants abort their fruit development if the moth lays too many eggs in the ovary. This ensures that at least some viable seeds will be produced each year, while some also will be eaten by grubs, so that the survival of both mutualistic partners is maintained.

1. Joshua tree

Joshua trees (Yucca brevifolia) forming a dominant tree-like "forest" over a grassland zone in the Joshua Tree National Park, USA. Although they look "woody", the stems of these trees do not have annual rings; instead they are fibrous and are coated with the remains of dead leaves.The leaves are short (about 30 cm long) and densely clustered near the tips of branches.

Some of the Joshua trees in this image have the remains of flower stalks. The growing point dies after flowering, and a new growing point emerges as a branch beneath this. Thus the trees become progressively more branched with age. Individual trees can live for perhaps 200 years or more.

2. Soaptree yucca

Soaptree yucca (Yucca elata), characterised by its narrow leaves and erect flowering spike. The plant shows the remains of the fruit capsules from the previous flowering season. Soaptree yucca gains its name from the high content of saponins in the trunk and roots. These soap-like compounds were used for shampoo and soap by indigenous Indians.

3. Schott's yucca

Left: Stiff, spine-tipped leaves of banana yucca, with white fibres caused by shredding of the leaf margins. In the past, yucca fibres have often been used by indigenous Indian tribes for making mats, baskets, cloth, rope and sandals.
Right: Clump of Schott's yucca (Yucca schottii), commonly termed Spanish bayonet. This species has lance-shaped leaves up to 90 cm long, and can grow to a height of 5 metres. It is found mainly on hillsides and in canyons at high elevation (4000 to 7000 feet).

4. Banana yucca

Banana yucca (Yucca baccata), showing the cluster of sweet-smelling, creamy-white flowers (photographed in May).
Yuccas leaves are a major source of fibres for basket-making and other types of weaving by native American people. These fibres are clearly seen in the shredded outer margins of the leaves in the image above.